Beijing's laozihaos, or old brand name shops, did not escape the demolition crews that tore down the Qianmen district to make way for the high rises and shopping malls that have to be slapped up before the arrival of 2008 Olympics. But a dozen well-known restaurants, some dating back more than a century, have found refuge in a large traditional courtyard house in Xiaoyou Hutong, beside Houhai. The old Menkuang Hutong of Qianmen has been "recreated" in this courtyard house, with stalls set up on both sides of the indoor "hutong" that serves as a food court, with diners sitting at traditional wooden tables and chairs. Black and white photos of old Beijing adorn the walls. The Jiumen Xiaochi, or Nine Gates Snacks, archway standing by the lake in front of Xiaoyou Hutong refers to the nine gates in the inner quarters of the Forbidden city. The private rooms in the courtyard are named after these gates, including Deshengmen, Dongzhimen and Zhengyangmen. According to Gao Yidao, the secretary of Beijing Laozihao Association, Beijing once had about 300 kinds of xiaochi, or snacks, but the constant influx of other regional foods, and the changing tastebuds of the younger generation, inevitably diminished the number to a mere 30. The opening of Jiumen Xiaochi was greeted by heated discussion in the Chinese media. A Beijing citizen sent a letter to the editor of the Beijing News voicing his hope that the tastes would remain the same as when these establishments were operating in the old Dazhalan area of Qianmen. Like many other older Beijing residents, he hoped that the aromas emanating from Chen’s intestines, Feng’s tripe and the sweet smell from Chatang Li’s would continue to travel through the alleyways of Beijing. Some of Beijing's oldest and most famous laozihao have regrouped here under one roof. Baodu Feng: the Feng family has been making flash-boiled tripe for several generations going back to Qing dynasty. The tahini-based dipping sauce that goes with the tripe is the Feng’s secret recipe. Feng’s tripe has long been a favorite among old Beijing families, which explains why the line is so long every day. Chatang Li: specializes in miancha, a flour paste with a choice of sweet or salty toppings. Miancha was created by an imperial chef who received millet tribute from Inner Mongolia in 1858. He grinded the millet into a fine flour and poured hot boiling water into it. He then mixed this into a thick paste, and added brown sugar and osmanthus syrup. The imperial family loved the dish and it soon became a breakfast item in the imperial menu. Niangao Qian: known for sticky rice layered with red bean paste as well as ludagun, ‘donkey rolling on the ground,’ the most popular sticky rice snack made by the Hui, or Chinese Muslims. Yangtou Ma: known for thin sliced meat from boiled lamb’s head. This shop used to be located on Ox Street, in the old Muslim quarter. Doufunao Bai: the characteristic of this soft beancurd is it’s fine and delicate texture. Topped with braised lamb and mushrooms. En Yuan Ju: famous for chaogeda, stir-fried morsels-sized noodle with veggies and meat. Yue Sheng Zhai; serves excellent jiang niurou, braised beef, shao yangrou, braised lamb, and zasui tang, soup with entrails of sheep. Xiaochang Chen: the main ingredient is intestines, complimented with pork lungs, deep-fried doufu, and unleavened baked bread. The contents are simmered slowly in an aromatic broth known in culinary language as luzhu. Dalian huoshao: makes potstickers in the shape of old-fashioned satchels that Chinese once wore over shoulder. These potstickers were the creation of the Yao family of Shunyi, who set up their small restaurant in the old Dong’an Market in 1876.
Add :1 Xiaoyou Hutong, Xicheng district
Tel: 6402 5858
Hours: 10:30am-1:30pm, 5:30-9:00pm
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