You'd likely walk past the non descript Wenyu Nailao Shop were it not for the eye-catching black sign board engraved with gold characters that hangs over the entrance located on the narrow Nanluogu Xiang.
Peek into this simple shop that specializes in nailao, a yoghurt-type snack that is smooth and appetizing, and you'll notice that there are just two tables and a counter, usually filled with customers. Several bowls in an array of colors are lined up neatly in the refrigerator.
There are pastel colored pink, brown, purple, yellow and white, or strawberry, coffee, taro banana, and plain nailao, for 4RMB a bowl. The taro nailao is exceptionally silky and delicious, similar to douhua (a custard-like beancurd), but a lot more firmer and creamier in texture.
Nailao (which is also the term for cheese in Chinese) is made with milk and sugar--like yoghurt--but the difference is that it is not fermented, but instead baked. The most interesting thing about nailao is the rice wine component. The craft of making nailao, in danger of disappearing, was fortunately continued by Tian Wenyu, the current owner of this family operated place. It is now one of the few small shops in Beijing that continue this tradition. “I learned how to make nailao from my grandfather,” says Mr. Tian, slowly warming up as the interview proceeds. He says a man surnamed Zuo passed the recipe on to his grandfather because none of his own descendants were interested in carrying on his tradition. In addition to selling 200-300 bowls a day of nailao, Mr. Tian also makes what could be the best suanmei tang in town. A hefty glass of this thirst-quenching summer drink made with dark plums (wumei), sells for just 4.5RMB. There is a slightly smoky plum flavor to the sour and sweet drink. Mr. Tian also has a new invention, shuangpi nai (5RMB), based on a Cantonese recipe. As shuang means double this suggests a custard-like snack that is much heavier and richer than nailao.
Add : Shop 49 Nanluoguxiang, Dongcheng district
Tel: 6405 7621
Hours: 11am-10pm
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