Jun Qin Hua

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Beijing Dinning Home : Beijing Dinning Jun Qin Hua That’s Beijing January 2006 A huge sign of a smiling Miao girl in her traditional costume caught my eye every time I passed by Jun Qin Hua, a small Guizhou restaurant on Meishuguan Houjie. However, the tiny restaurant had just six tables covered with plastic tablecloths, a mish-mash of Guizhou decorations, and looked like many of the thousands of other non-descript restaurants that crowd the streets of Beijing. I seriously doubted whether the food could possibly match the attractive image over its storefront. But one will never know without trying, so I decided to venture in one Saturday for lunch with my family. I was having difficulty choosing our cold appetizer dish, struggling between mi doufu and juanfen, two types of cold rice noodles. Mr. Liu, the helpful manager, noticed the indecision on my face and suggested we order a mixed platter of the two. Mi doufu is steamed rice flour juice mixed with a green juice from xiao baicai, or small Chinese cabbage, while juanfen is simply made of rice flour juice. Both were very good but the mi doufu was exceptional. The essence of the vegetable juice could be tasted in each bite, and was quite refreshing. My doubts about the food evaporated bit by bit as each dish arrived at our table. First to come was a plate of lazi ji (ala Guizhou), bite-sized pieces of chicken smothered in cloves of garlic and crushed chilies. This dish is totally different from Chongqing lazi ji, more exciting in its own unique way. You're guaranteed to fall in love with this dish as long as you're not afraid of garlic. The cloves of garlic was also quite tasty, and left no after-taste. For a vegetable dish we ordered stir-fried juecai, a kind of wild vegetable, which was very tasty. There are several types of juecai in the same family, but the kind we ate had purple stems and a tougher fibrous texture. The wild vegetables were followed by zaola tudou pian, stir-fried potatoes cooked with zaola, a type of crushed chilies popular in Guizhou. “Zaola is Guizhou’s special condiment,” said Liu, adding that the “chilies are stone pounded and then allowed to ferment.” The thin slices of potato had been passed through oil first, which resulted in a crispy and delicious outer shell, but yet a moist and soft centre. It was a hit with the family. Zhe’er gen chao larou is stir-fried “stinky” root with homemade cured meat. The botanical name for this root is houttuynia cordata, and it is commonly used as edging, borders, or bed groundcover by gardeners. For Guizhou natives, however, it's a delicacy. Zhe’er gen is sometimes referred to as yuxing cao, translated literally as smelly fish grass. It is the national dish of the Guizhou people. The leafy part of this vegetable is also eaten in Sichuan, while in Guizhou they eat the roots. The particular and pungent smell of zhe’er gen is much stronger in the root. Although this root is called ‘smelly fish grass,’ the pungent smell isn’t fishy at all; still, it isn't a pleasant smell, unless you’re a true Guizhou native. ASuantang yu, or sour soup fish, came last. I craved this sour soup fish since my trip to Kaili four years ago. The bright scarlet soup is as seductive as the lipstick colors staring out from the pages of Vogue magazine. The sour taste is simply captivating. We ended the meal with huangba, a steamed glutinous rice cake made with brown sugar. It went well with the spicy dishes as it is on the sweet side. It reminded me of niangao, the sweet rice cakes eaten during the Chinese lunar new year. Mr. Liu told us his sister, who grew up in Kaili during the Cultural Revolution, opened the restaurant in 1997. She returned to Beijing just eight years ago, bringing these spicy recipes with her to the Chinese capital. Kaili is a minority village in Guizhou famous for its colorful embroidery. Add : 88 Meishuguan Houjie Tel: 6404 7600 Hours: 10am-11pm Back to the Restaurant Review Index

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Guilinren Sijiacai

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Beijing Dinning Home : Beijing Dinning Guilinren Sijiacai Time Out August 2007 It may be difficult to summon up the energy to go out of your way to experience a hole-in-the wall dining venue on the other side of town. But the newly opened Guilin Ren Sijia Cai (you could hardly tell by the décor, which made the place look 10 years old) in the south side of Beijing is totally worth the trip. The minute you step into the restaurant, you are immediately immersed in the powerful sour smell of fermented bamboo shoots--a Guangxi trademark-- and other true flavours of this lesser known provincial cuisine. The somewhat strange odor may put you off, but once you are accustomed to the sour tasting bamboo shoots, or suansun, this acquired taste can be haunting, an unusual taste that lingers in your memory, the very thought ignites a craving for it. Having suansun is like a love-hate relationship—you hate it at first bite, you grow to like it at second bite, you fall for it completely with the third bite. The ethnic Miao adore their fermented tomatoes, which is the base for the famed suantang yu, or the sour soup fish, while the Zhuang minority of Guangxi are passionately hooked on sour bamboo shoots. The bamboo shoots are naturally fermented by soaking them in water for a few days. Many dishes are made with these bamboo shoots, which are cut in strips and stir-fried with either pork of beef. Suansun chao niurousi (18RMB), stir-fried shredded beef with bamboo shoots and tomatoes, and accented with dried chilies, is marvelous. The pungent and spicy taste is exciting and stimulating (we are hooked already). Pijiu ya ganguo (48RMB), dry-pot beer duck is Guilin’s signature dish. Chunks of fleshy sour bamboo shoots, duck cut up intact with bones, a few pieces of black fungi and fuzhu (rolled dried beancurd), are simmered in beer and seasoned with garlic and ginger. This simple and unassuming dish is out of this world. The rich flavor of the combined ingredients is beautifully intertwined. The fully infused duck meat is tender and amazingly tasty. Tan shaorou (20RMB), made with streaky pork, which is slow cooked in a broth that has an indistinguishable, but lovely, mélange of aromas, is another incredibly delicious dish offered here, and we have not seen it on any menu at other restaurants. A second plate has to be ordered because the content of the first disappears almost immediately. The cooked meat is char-grilled shortly just before serving to give a crisp on the edges of the pieces of meat that melt-in-your-mouth. Tan shaorou is a must order dish that would tempt even a vegetarian. Another highlight is a veggie dish called furu kongxin cai (10RMB), water spinach sautéed with white fermented beancurd. This white fermented beancurd is a Guangxi special with a light taste, clear colour. It's super delicious. Suan jiao da baicai (8RMB) is bland napa cabbage stir-fried with dried chilies. It has a slightly sour taste but is magically tasty. Xiangyu men paigu (20RMB) is good, but it's best to have this dish in the fall when the taro grown in Lipu, a town in Guangxi is in season. Guilin luwei fen (8RMB), or rice noodles in aromatic condiments, are slippery but dense in texture and very chewy--the best of its kind and second to none. Conclude you meal with basi xiangyu (18RMB), taro coated in caramelized granulated sugar. Add : 2 Qisheng Xiang, Wanming Lu, Xuanwu district 桂林人私家菜 宣武区齐胜巷2号 Tel: 6304 5269 Hours: 10am-11pm Back to the Restaurant Review Index

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The Hong Kong Corner, Beijing Top Restaurant

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Beijing Dinning Home : Beijing Dinning The Hong Kong Corner Time Out July 2007 Lovers of seafood are used to shelling out. But factor in Cantonese cuisine’s obsession with the exotic and you could end up with a bill that lands you, and not just the lobster, in hot water. Freshly steamed whole garoupa does not come cheap, (220RMB for half kilogram); steamed lobster is 300RMB, and baked oysters are 280RMB for six, with a choice of garlic or black bean chili sauce. Braised shark's fin over rice, the house specialty, is 280RMB, while sea cucumber abalone over rice is a slightly more affordable 168RMB. As wonderful as the seafood corner is, if you are hankering after something less extravagant, the Cantonese shaola, or roasted meats, is a good alternative as well as an all-time favourite. Roasted goose (88RMB/half, 168RMB/whole), suckling pig (58RMB/order, 328RMB/whole pig) and roasted pork (38RMB) are each worth visiting this restaurant for. A combo shaola platter – generous portions of roasted goose, BBQ pork tenderloin and suckling pig – arrives beautifully arranged. The skin of both the roasted goose and suckling pig are crispy, the meat moist and tender; and the roast pork is perfectly sweet. The plum sauce is excellent, sweet and tart, and goes especially well with roasted goose, helping to cut the goose fat under the skin. Another economical option is the baozai fan, rice in chafing pot (36RMB) – cured meat, salted fish, chicken and mushroom. Typical dim sum dishes such as shrimp dumplings, pork buns, spareribs, beef balls and spring rolls cost 10-22RMB. The station in the middle whips up a refreshing cold almond drink (36RMB). Mung bean and tangerin peel (22RMB) and fresh fruit juices selling for between 18-28RMB are other selections. Add : 3 Maizidian Xi Lu, Ladies Street, Laitai Flower Market, opposite Xin Heng Ji Bldg. Chaoyang district Tel: 84480802 Hours: 9:30am--11pm Back to the Restaurant Review Index

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Taipan Oriental , Beijing Top Restaurant, Beijing Dinning

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Beijing Dinning Home : Beijing Dinning Taipan Oriental June 2006 Time Out Beijing A Hong Kong style restaurant on the second floor with a few Portugese/Mecanese dishes and a bakery on the ground floor. An outdoor wooden deck furnished with comfortable summer chairs and tables is a pleasant spot for a cup of coffee. The shrimp wonton comes with tasty broth and the shrimps are firm and delicious. Baked whole pigeon served with a piece of lemon, salt and pepper and Worcestershire sauce as condiment, is tender and juicy, a nice change from the familiar taste of chicken. Taipan’s shaola, roasted and barbebued meat is probably arguably the best in town. You can order anywhere from one up to three types of your favorite meats and it comes with a heap of steamed rice and two pieces of choyxim, the typical southern ‘heart vegetable’. There are also several kinds of curry dishes offered, ranging from 20 RMB to 98 RMB for crab curry. Portugese sausage garnished with tomatoes and onion and Mecanese fried rice is worth trying. Golden Jaguar is located on Donganmen Dajie and the cooked-to-order-feel of the restaurant is not a million miles away from that of the Wangfujing night market outside. The interior’s brightly-lit marble floors give it the anonymous atmosphere of an upscale canteen, but it does have a buzz about it, with cooks hovering over food stations and attentive staff constantly maneuvering between tables. Fish fans in the north of the city should head to their Yayuncun location. Add : 2F, Xinzu Daxia, 6 Ritan Lu, Chaoyang district Tel: 6585 3478 Hours: 11am-2:30pm, 5-10:30pm Back to the Restaurant Review Index

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